The big story here is the surprise swell. Buried deep in the fog are some gorgeous sets in the 4 foot range. Combined with our SandyBars (post-Sandy sandbars) (TM) we have some great surf. But the barrier to entry is high.
First off, the water is cold, really cold, bottom-of-the-ocean cold, thanks to the massive amount of upwelling occurring from these consistent south winds. Evidence of upwelling litters the beach and huge clusters of mussels and gunk can be found everywhere. Full wet suits are seen everywhere,
Next, the current flowing North is fierce, again thanks to the non-stop South winds. Be prepared for the ‘ol walk-n-ride. Most surfers drift at least 1.5 jetties by the time they’ve paddled out and caught the first ride.
Lastly, the visibility stinks. Be prepared to neither see the beach you’re drifting to nor the rogue wave comin’ at you.
But if you can get over those 3 humps you’re in for a treat. Today is the end of the period and we’ll be back to 1 footers for the rest of the week, so get out soon if you’re so inclined.
Be on alert if you have kids in the water. The current often rips strongest across the shallowest parts of the SandyBar (TM) giving “shallow” only the illusion of safety.