So it turns out, it was “fun”! The growing swell was blasted by stiff South winds but there have been great periods for riding over the last 24 hours if you were willing to do a little work to paddle out to the break. Today we have more of the same, but the South blew strongly all night so the current is even stronger, even on the outside of the break.
I for one am looking forward to a change in this trend and it looks like it is coming. We may have to keep ourselves busy this afternoon waiting out a 13+ South, humidity, low visibility, light rains, potential thunderstorms, and other stuff that make it really hard to plop down on the beach and forget the world… but the front is pushing through, hopefully with a big boom tonight, and warm, clear skies are on the way. Hopefully kicking off with a West Wind on Sunday AM before we lose this swell completely.
Happy Changeover Day. Today is in fact a great day to either pack or unpack.